How to Paper Tune a Compound Bow: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide
- 10 min reading time
At a glance: paper tuning is the process of shooting an arrow through a sheet of paper at close range to see how straight the arrow flies out of your bow. The goal is a bullet hole: a clean round hole with three even fletching cuts around it. Any other pattern is a paper tear that tells you what to fix. Vertical tears point to your rest, nocking point, or cam timing. Horizontal tears point to cam alignment, arrow spine, or shooting form. This guide walks through the tuning method our factory-trained technicians use in the shop.
Do You Need to Paper Tune Your Bow?
If you shoot broadheads, yes. A perfect tune makes broadheads fly the same as field points, the foundation for a broadhead tune later. Field point shooters gain accuracy and forgiveness. Target bow archers sometimes tune to a consistent tear rather than a bullet hole, since a repeatable arrow flight matters more than a round hole. Different goals, same tuning method.
What You Need to Paper Tune at Home
Any frame that holds paper taut on at least two sides works.
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A frame: PVC square, mobile clothes rack, ladder, or cardboard cutout
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Masking paper, brown paper, or newsprint
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Duct tape or clamps
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A bag target as your backstop, one arrow length behind the paper
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Shooting space of 2 to 6 feet
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Your bow, one marked arrow, and your release
Pre-Check These 5 Things Before You Shoot
Bow setup is where most bow tuning goes sideways. Address these five things first.
Cam Timing
The top cam and bottom cam must roll over at the same time. Out-of-sync cams give paper tears no rest move will fix. A draw board is the best tool. If the bottom cam rolls first, correct timing on a bow press before shooting paper.
Rest Position and Center Shot
Vertical: arrow center through the burger button hole. Horizontal: start at the manufacturer's center shot spec, usually 13/16 inch from the riser.
Nocking Point
Set the nock point 1/8 to 1/4 inch above 90 degrees from the burger button. An off nock point gives vertical tears no rest move will fix.
Nock Pinch
One nock set below the arrow, or one above and one below with a small gap. Never just one above.
Brace Height, Draw Length, and Arrow Length
Confirm brace height matches spec. Confirm your draw length is right. Confirm arrow length matches the arrow spine chart. Cutting an arrow shaft too short stiffens dynamic spine and creates tears no rest move solves.
How to Shoot Through Paper
Stand 2 to 6 feet from the paper. Nock your marked arrow the same way every shot. Use your normal shot process at full draw with a relaxed grip and no torque. Shoot five arrows and pick the one with the most consistent paper tear. Use that arrow for the rest of the session, since small variations produce different tears. Consistent shooting form matters more than any adjustment. USA Archery's National Training System is the sport's coaching curriculum for repeatable form.
How to Read the Tear

The direction of the fletching cuts tells you what to fix. A bullet hole means perfect arrow flight. Any other pattern is a diagnostic.
|
Tear Type |
What You See |
Likely Cause |
First Fix |
|
Nock High |
Cuts point up |
The nock point is too high or the rest is too low |
Rest up OR nock point down |
|
Nock Low |
Cuts point down |
The nock point is too low or the rest is too high |
Rest down OR nock point up |
|
Left Tear |
Cuts point left |
Tail leaving left |
Cam left OR rest right |
|
Right Tear |
Cuts point right |
Tail leaving right |
Cam right OR rest left |
|
Combination |
Diagonal cuts |
Multiple issues |
Fix vertical first, then horizontal |
The Fix Path

Vertical adjustments first, horizontal second. A high or low nock point can mask a horizontal tear, and you end up chasing your tail if you skip this order.
Vertical Adjustments
Nock high: rest up OR nock point down. Nock low: rest down OR nock point up. Small adjustments only. If a rest move does not change the tear, look at cam timing or nock pinch.
Horizontal Fixes (Cam Manipulation by Brand)
For a right-handed shooter with a horizontal tear, shift the cams before touching the rest. Modern compound bow platforms give you options:
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Elite SET Technology: SET screw clockwise for a right tear
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Mathews Limb Shift: rotate the screw toward the L or R indicator, no bow press needed
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Bowtech DeadLock: turn the axle screw to drive the cam
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PSE EZ.220: move the spacers left or right
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Split-yoke bows: twist the yoke cable on the side you want the cam to shift
Move the cam in the same direction as the tear.
The 13/16 Myth
Do not chase the 13/16 inch center shot after cam adjustments. Paper tells you if the arrow is flying straight, not the ruler. If your rest ends at 14/16 or 12/16 with a bullet hole, that is the right tune.
Bare Shaft Tuning: The Next Step After Paper
Once you have a bullet hole with a fletched shaft, bare shaft tuning is the next step for the finest tune possible. A fletched arrow can hide small issues because vanes correct minor flight errors mid-air. A bare shaft cannot.
Shoot a bare shaft alongside a fletched arrow at 10 to 20 yards at the same aim point. For a right-handed shooter, bare shaft left of the fletched arrow means weak. Bare shaft right means stiff. Bare shaft high or low points to nock point or rest. Bare shaft tuning through paper works at a short range too, though bare shaft tuning through paper is less forgiving since any inconsistency in shooting form shows up right away.
Verify at Different Distances
Paper tuning at 5 feet is the start, not the finish. A clean tear up close can open at a longer distance because small inconsistencies do not show until the arrow has traveled. Get a bullet hole at 2 to 6 feet, then 10 to 12 feet, then 7 to 8 yards, then 15 yards. Small adjustments at the different distances dial the tune in.
Nock Tuning: Test Every Arrow
You tuned to one arrow. Now check the rest. Shoot every remaining arrow through paper at 12 feet and label each tear. Most should match. Some will not. Rotate the nock a quarter turn or a third turn, then shoot again. If it will not tune, swap the nock. If it still will not tune, retire the shaft. Arrow selection consistency across the quiver separates a clean broadhead tune from a miss.
Common Mistakes and When to Stop Tinkering
Inconsistent bow grip: The biggest cause of bad tears. Relax your bow hand.
Chasing spine: With a mechanical release and a modern compound bow, spine rarely causes bad tears. If on the edge, go stiffer.
Wrong arrow length: Cutting the arrow shaft too short stiffens dynamic spine.
Over-tinkering: Once tuned, leave it alone. Modern compounds do not drift out of tune on their own.
Bring Your Bow to Our Pro Shop for a Final Check
Even the best DIY tune benefits from a second look. Our factory-trained bow technicians at Adventures Archery service every major compound bow brand and handle full tune-ups, string and cable replacements, and accessory installation. Bring your bow to our Tampa or Lakeland location for bow tuning. First come, first served. If your arrow selection is not the right arrow spine, our arrow spine guide will get you to the right shaft.
Paper Tuning FAQs
Do bowhunters really need to paper tune?
Yes, especially broadhead hunters. A paper-tuned bow makes broadheads fly the same as field points.
What distance should I paper tune from?
Start at 2 to 6 feet. Verify at 10 to 12 feet, then 7 to 8 yards, then 15 yards.
Can arrow spine cause a bad paper tear?
Rarely with a mechanical release and a modern compound bow. Grip and setup are more common. If on the edge, go stiffer.
Should I paper tune with a bare shaft or a fletched arrow?
Fletched arrow first. Bare shaft tuning is the next step, too sensitive to be the starting point.
Can I paper tune my bow at home?
Yes. A frame, a bag target backstop, and patience. A factory-trained tech's second look catches subtle issues.